Cargo pants: the history and origins (2024)

Rarely does a piece of clothing manage to bridge the gap between luxury and streetwear likecargo pants. This fundamental archetype of menswear, born at the dawn of World War II, has transcended epochs, national borders, and generations, as well as various subcultures, to become, today, perhapsthe only wardrobe item that enjoys a sort of universal consensusworldwide. From the highest luxury to the cheapest, low-quality products from brands like Shein, cargo pants, with appropriate modifications, cut across every imaginable market category. And in this season, cargo pants surprised many by appearing onthe Saint Laurent runway, thanks to a perfect storm of love for oversized pants, the utility trend, and quiet luxury. The status of cargo pants in the fashion world has changed many times innearly a century since their first appearance, not on the runway but in British barracks in the late 1930s.

From the field of fire to the streets

The history of cargo pants begins in the 1930s when the British army realized the need for a more modern and practical uniform. Their existing clothing, known as the "Service Dress," had become obsolete with the evolving nature of war and the introduction of tanks and other mechanized equipment. The British War Office undertook extensive research to design a new standardized uniform suitable for the needs of modern combat, resulting in the "Battle Dress," officially released in 1938. This new uniform represented a significant departure from the formality of previous military clothing, focusing on functionality. The trousers, in particular, underwent a transformation, featuring a pocket for maps just above the left knee and a smaller pocket for medications on the right side, laying the foundation for what we now know as cargo pants. These updates may seem simple by today's standards, but they were revolutionary at the time, transforming military trousers from simple leg coverings into essential components of a soldier's equipment. After all, carrying a large, folded map was of little use without a pocket to put it in.

The 1939 Battle Dress remained the standard during World War II, and although some older officers initially resisted the modern look, the uniform proved its worth on the battlefield and was soon adopted by all nations under British colonial rule. Things were different in the United States: in 1942, William P. Yarborough, a commander of the U.S. Army Airborne Forces, was tasked with reinventing the uniform worn by paratroopers. These soldiers often had to jump from planes with over 100 pounds of equipment strapped to their backs, so, as a solution to distribute the weight, Yarborough discarded the one-piece jumpsuits previously used in favor of a two-piece uniform with ample pockets called M42. In the oblique pockets of the jacket, one could store automatic knives used to cut away parachute remnants upon landing. Cotton canvas trousers were a natural development from the British Battle Dress design, with two large bellows pockets (suitable for holding everything from socks to grenades), and thus, "paratrooper pants" began to be called "cargo pants." In the early 1950s, the M42 model gave way to the slimmer OD-107 pants, featuring two rectangular pockets on the front, used during the Korean War. It was only in 1962 when the military came together to design a specific uniform for the tropical climate of the wet forests in Vietnam (with William P. Yaborough again in the forefront) that cargo pants made their return.

Starting in the second half of the century, the military surplus and used clothing industry began to take shape, with old army garments becoming economical alternatives to classic formal wear normally accepted in social contexts. Military styles, with their functionality, found their way into the hands of economically disadvantaged youth, igniting a fascination that would become generational. In the 1950s, 1960s, and 1970s, military surplus played a vital role in making military-inspired clothing accessible to climbers, hikers, campers, hunters, fishermen, and various subcultures. However, it was only in the 1980s that cargo pants (including shorts) enjoyed a surge in popularity in civilian fashion. Among the most famous are the Bugle Boy cargo pants launched in 1986, but there are many examples with brands like Triple 5 Soul, Eckō, and LRG being more prevalent in the hip-hop field in the following decade. The design was initially used in workwear and later found favor among golfers and hikers, who appreciated the comfort and practicality. Khaki became the preferred color for these cargo pants, likely as a homage to their military origins.

From there, the comfort of cargo pants made them popular as attire for skating and dancing, becoming a cornerstone of proto-streetwear (alongside the popular Dickies in the West Coast), functional clothing in the world of breakdancing, and later in hip-hop when, in the mid-1990s, the underground scene emerged, differentiating itself from the more immediately commercial hip-hop. Cargo pants, especially JNCO Jeans, became part of the distinctive look of many artists who wanted to stand out from rivals who still wore spandex pants, the multicolored trousers of Cross Colours and Karl Kani, sleeveless jumpsuits like Busta Rhymes, and the infamous MC Hammer pants.

From the street to the catwalk

Establishing when the intersection of hip-hop cargo pants and fashion occurred is complex. Digging into the historical archives of WWD, it is immediately noticeable that the earliest mentions of cargo pants pertain to the denim industry, still separate from the world of luxury fashion. Their appearance is noted on the Paris Fashion Week SS95 runway by Claude Montana. Other cargo pants were included in the first DKNY collection by Donna Karan, launched in 1997. Another mention, later on, was made at New York Fashion Week in the SS98 collection by Marithé + François Girbaud, and at Milan Fashion Week in the SS98 collection by Ferragamo, with a return the following season in the FW99 collection by Classe, the brand founded by Alviero Martini, which would later become Prima Classe as we know it today. In the same year, Walter Van Beirendonck launched Wild & Lethal Trash, which featured cargo pants. Speaking to WWD in July 1998, Ralph Lauren's Vice President of Women's Wear, Lewis Koppelman, said: «The cargo pant is the hottest item. It’s the single biggest-selling item on the line at wholesale and we’re thrilled that retail reaction has been equally strong». In the SS99 season, cargo pants appeared in Sonia Rykiel's show, while in 2000, Dior's cargo pants became best-sellers among American celebrities and increasingly entered mainstream fashion discourse as the millennium approached.

The definitive leap occurred in 2002 when Nicholas Ghesquiere turned cargo pants into the foundation for many looks in Balenciaga's SS02 collection, definitively detaching them from the streetwear and sportswear world and making them a new archetype of luxury – although we can assume they were already widely popular. The following year, it was Jean Paul Gaultier and then Dolce & Gabbana's turn to popularize cargo pants with their SS03 collection, which has now become iconic.

2003 was one of the most important years for cargo sales, unanimously described as the best-selling item of the spring season, alongside micro-skirts. However, by December, the trend seemed saturated. Nevertheless, the model never truly disappeared from fashion. American mall brands like Abercrombie & Fitch had made them so popular that it was impossible for fashion designers to avoid creating luxury versions of them. Moreover, cargo pants remained a cornerstone of streetwear aesthetics, becoming more refined over time and today being the most popular style for the Gen Z.

Recently, the SS24 collections seen in America and major European fashion capitals were filled with cargo pants, stripped of their military essence and transformed into not only functional items but also excellent opportunities to explore the beauty of cuts and draping. The most striking case was certainly Saint Laurent, whose latest collection paid tribute to the safari jacket (and its pockets) and specifically included cargo pants paired with ultra-tight transparent tops. In other cases, from Ferrari to Dries Van Noten, passing through Balenciaga, Junya Watanabe, Marine Serre, and especially The Attico, the classic cargo pants model has become a playground for imaginative pocket arrangements, reconfiguring fits (currently favoring the monumental), and unique pairings. Twenty years after their record-breaking year, cargo pants are more popular and thriving than ever – and we're ready to bet that their popularity won't fade anytime soon.